Festival ensemble

Festival outfit of the Boysun Tribe, Surxondaryo (Surkhandarya) Province, southern Uzbekistan.

a ) Dress of maroon silk with multicolored cotton Suzani-style embroidered floral designs. Knee-length(+/-), with slight v-neckline and collar. Slight gathers/pleats into yoke just below neckline. Embroidery in panels/sections over much of the garment, with white scrolling vine forms, green leaf forms, blue, yellow, and white "snowflake"/roundel motifs, green, red, orange, pink, and white plant forms. Scattered multicolored sequins within some of the embroidery. 3/4-length sleeves with same decoration. Yoke with lining of off-white cotton. Main body of garment unlined. Hem appears to either have been let down, or come out. No labels or tags in garment.

b ) Headscarf of woven ikat in blue, yellow, maroon, and off-white. Rectangular, with fringe at narrow ends. To be wrapped around the head in a turban-like fashion. 16 1/4" wide x 68" long w/out fringe. No labels or tags.

c ) Chirpy. Jacket-like head cover of thin cotton(?) fabric woven with vertical stripes of pink, yellow, red, green, blue, pale purple, etc. Center front opening with no closures, edged with embroidered band with green outer stripes, reddish inner stripes, and central band of black with scrolling forms in white and orange. Vertical bands from yoke to about waist of groups of triangles in rust, green, purple, blue, yellow, black, white, and pink, a band of checker-board in black, rectangular sections with extending "crosses" in same colors as triangles, and black embroidered "zig-zag" band with "blossoms" extending from zigs on one side, in various colors. Hem is unfinished. At back are hanging panels evolved from the sleeves that hung in back when a real jacket was worn as head-cover. The back panels are tapering rectangles, and are joined about mid-back by thin black tie. "Sleeves" with embroidery as front, with additional bands of wave motifs at "cuffs". Unlined. Reverse of opening edges and collar faced with printed striped fabric. No labels or tags.

D) Bead Necklace. "choker" style bead necklace composed of sections of orange and black horizontal strands interspersed with diamond-shaped motifs of white, orange, green, yellow, and reddish brown. Below the main section is a "fringe, consisting of white beads forming a narrow net, then bands of red and orange, then fringe of blue, yellow, black, white, red, green, and ending in shells, glass beads, etc. Large circular button clasp.
E) Bead Necklace. "Bib" style, with wide main portion of latticed clear beads overlaid with a field of shell/mother of pearl buttons. Vertical strands of beads along top, attaching to choker band with button clasp. The bib has a lower band of white, black, etc. openwork beading, then strands of beaded fringe in clear, green, yellow, blue, black, red, etc.

F) Bead Necklace. Necklace of openwork beading. Wide straps with diamond shapes of yellow/orange with inner sections of blues and yellows against grounds of green, red, blue, and orange. Large central section formed as a white beaded diamond shape containing concentric diamonds of green and red. Blue beaded fringe at bottom ending in red and white "flowerheads"
g ) Pants. 1 pair of pants, part woven ikat, part printed fabric. Full-length. Upper section of red fabric with darker reds and white printed rose pattern. Elastic waistband. Legs of ikat in vertical design. Maroon, green, yellow, white, pink, purple. With vertical stripes of gold metallic and black thread. Unlined, but cuffs with inner facing of same print fabric as upper section of pants. No labels or tags.

H) Tubeteika/duppi style skull cap of embroidered cotton with domed crown totally covered in geometric and stylized embroidery forms in green, orange, brown, pink, white, blue/purple, etc.

I & J) Boots. Red cotton(?) uppers embroidered with circular/sun designs and scrolls in green, yellow, red, blue, pink, white. Scattered silver "sequins" which are small strips of silver folded through fabric. Red leather soles. Edged in black. Lined in dark red leather.